QUILTS & FABRIC: PAST & PRESENT


Monday, March 31, 2025

Morris Manor: Best of Morris from Moda, Denniele & Me

 

County Roads by Denniele Bohannon
She used prints from my latest line of William Morris reproductions...

...which should be in your shop soon.

Denniele, who loves a complex pieced design, has
stitched patterns for her Louanna Mary Quilt Design
shop.

https://louannamaryquiltdesign.bigcartel.com/products?fbclid=IwY2xjawJWS6JleHRuA2FlbQIxMAABHRnfKKvrIt6eXvcmKrc32LDt3SpIS9ey70ZFARE0uUEsWaJhDFPH-97R7w_aem_jO9stSJbt9vl_ySty9TUfg

 Here's one she finished but decided not to pattern. So you get a free pattern here.


Here are the 12" finished blocks with 2 different fussy-cut centers.


She found the design in BlockBase+, which tells us it was a Laura Wheeler pattern from the Old Chelsea Station Needlecraft Company. At the bottom of the clipping they tell you it's "easy for beginners." They often said that but they were often wrong. 

(Note to Laura: "Beginner patterns have straight seams and no set-in pieces.")

Long arm quilting by Becky Collis

But if you can piece curves and Y-seams....It's a wonderful design. Here's the original pattern with an octagon in the center rather than a circle.

Print these two sheets 8-1/2 x 11".

You might want a border for your 48" quilt.
Denniele also sketched it with blocks on point.


And Becky Collis pieced and quilted Denniele's pattern with the circle.

Collaboration!

Tuesday, March 25, 2025

Lena Himmelstein Bryant---Fashion Innovator

  


Illustration of clothing designer Lena Bryant by Jauna Martinez-Neal for the 
children's book A Perfect Fit by Mara Rockcliff

Lena Himmelstein Bryant Malsin (1877 – 1951),
perhaps a wedding picture for her second marriage in
1909 to Albert Malsin.

When she was in her 70s in 1948 she wrote a short autobiography.
"I was born in a small village in Lithuania and my mother died when I was ten days old. My older sister and I were brought up by our grandparents. My sister migrated to the United States early, and when I was sixteen years old, some distant relatives offered to take me in 1897.
New York's European Jewish area in 1898
"My sister was a seamstress in a shop, and there I was hired for $1 a week. Soon I [was] a first class machine operator at $4 a week more.
 
"I met, and within a year married David Bryant (1870-1900), a jeweler older than I and in my eyes a sophisticated man of the world. Ten months later our son Raphael was born, and within a year my husband had died.

"The wedding gift from my jeweler husband of a pair of diamond earrings was often pawned to pay for a sewing machine---or rent. I started a business of of fine bridal lingerie. 



Her first shop was on the corner here across from a park distinguished by a large black rock.
"In 1907 I opened a real shop on Fifth Avenue and 120th St near Mt. Morris Park [in Harlem.]  I borrowed $300 from my brother-in-law to open a bank account. The whole procedure so rattled me that I signed my name L-A-N-E. From that day on I was Lane Bryant.
At the time pregnancy was a deplorable condition (obvious result of S-E-X!) and not to be discussed or alluded to in polite society. Women who were "showing" stayed home.

Member of not-so-polite society 

Lena was persuaded by a customer to design something she could wear while entertaining at home that would not call attention to her condition and be somehow fashionable.

A great moment in women's history. 
Soon all the rich young matrons wanted what Lena called a Maternity Dress, 
even though the newspapers were too scandalized to advertise the garment at first.

Lena married Russian-born Albert Malsin in April, 1909. By 1911 they were bringing in $50,000 annually with their specialty fashion. Within a few years 5 million.
  "Albert was born on the Baltic shores, had studied engineering in Germany and had traveled widely."

 The 1910 census shows Albert and Lena living with Raphael now ten and baby Theodore. They have two live-in maids, Lizzie from Ireland and Kate Meyer from ?

Within a year of their marriage Albert is listed as the Clothes Manufacturer and Lena has no job at all. NONE.

Patent for Albert Malsin in 1914 for a "Ladies' 
Garment" designed to expand.

Who actually designed his patents is open to question. Lena and Albert shared an unusual understanding of space, the female torso and cloth and its drape. But Albert was more the business manager; Lena the designer.

Albert's 1918 draft registration. He lived at 1261 Madison Avenue
and was a Retail Merchant for Lane Bryant on West 38th St.

They left this luxury apartment for the suburbs of Mt. Vernon
after three children.

She and Albert realized there was a need for clothing that did not fit the petite figure. They (He?!?) measured 4,500 women, came up with flattering designs and began selling plus-sized clothing.

1935 ad for clothing to fit "Stout Women & Misses"

Lena lost her second husband in 1923 when Albert died in his early forties. He was ill for two weeks with what was diagnosed as influenza.

This complimentary obituary of Albert
as a valued immigrant was copied by
several papers.


She and her children carried on with the innovative clothing that became classic, inclusive style.



"I Love Lucy"
Lucille Ball continued to work while pregnant
and wearing a lot of polka dots.

Lena about 1950

 Jauna Martinez-Neal for A Perfect Fit by Mara Rockcliff

Read a review of the children's book: A Per­fect Fit: How Lena ​"Lane” Bryant Changed the Shape of Fashion

https://www.jewishbookcouncil.org/book/a-perfect-fit-how-lena-lane-bryant-changed-the-shape-of-fashion

Lena's 1950 autobiography "They Call Me Success Story" was published in the magazine Guideposts:
Read it here:


Wednesday, March 19, 2025

Pineapples & Myth Busting

 

Pineapple applique quilt in standard red and green colors, about
1850.

Number 9.74 in my Encyclopedia of Applique was quite popular in album samplers
and as a repeat block through the end of the 19th century.




With many variations as in this photograph from the Georgia project book Georgia Quilts. Center embroidery: "M.A.J. Connell A Present From Her Mother"

Quilt attributed to Italian-born Rachel Boggiano about 1880 from the New York project

In her 1929 book Ruth Finley showed two pineapple quilts giving us information about the symbolism:
"One of the most favored of all post-Colonial designs....a symbol of domestic hospitality." 


Late 19th century, attributed to the Dyer family of Arkansas

Her description has become standard text about pineapple quilts. As I often say, I get tired of arguing with Ruth Finley who is behind most of the American quilt myths that need to be busted.

Historian Michael Olmert wrote in “The Hospitable Pineapple” in the Winter 1997-1998 issue of the Colonial Williamsburg Journal: “And here is what we do not know about pineapples: that they had anything at all to do with hospitality in the 17th and 18th centuries." (He needed an editor, but he was an authority.)


Colonial Williamsburg in its prominent spot as a leader in the Colonial Revival of the early 20th century has long used a pineapple as an important welcome symbol, emphasizing the image in the gift shop and seasonal decorations. The state of Virginia and in truth the whole Old South has co-opted the image as a symbol of "Southern Hospitality."



 Marketing and history---two different departments.

Smithsonian Collection. Attributed to an unknown New Yorker, captioned: 
"The pineapple motif, often associated with hospitality."

Recent writers have been considering myths of Southern Hospitality and the Pineapple's symbolism. Among them:

Julia Blakely at the Smithsonian, The Prickly Meanings of the Pineapple
https://blog.library.si.edu/blog/2021/01/28/the-prickly-meanings-of-the-pineapple/

Blakely showed this 1657 plate from A True & Exact 
History of the Island of Barbadoes, by Richard Ligon.

Their findings summarized: The pineapple, a South American fruit, was an expensive, imported luxury worth thousands, valued to show off one's wealth while entertaining. 

Royal Collections Trust/Great Britain
King Charles II receiving a pineapple from the royal 
gardener in the 1670s.

Rich people were known to rent pineapples for an event. They were a status symbol, an indicator of wealth and class.
Sort of like this Chanel handbag worth thousands today.
I am sure people rent Chanel bags for the same reasons.

I try not to be too hard on Ruth Finley lately. She documented her times. 

Ruth Ebright Finley (1884-1955)

Who is to argue with the Rockefellers enthusiastically restoring the colonial Virginia capitol Williamsburg in the 1920s or the Southerners creating a white-washed image of their flawed pre-Civil-War culture.


 Did pineapples have any deep meaning to a 19th-century quiltmaker looking for designs?

Indianapolis Museum of Art Collection